Creed Green Irish Tweed Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli Flower of fertility, in ancient times and a cure, too: garlands of violets worn around the head were thought to prevent headaches and dizziness, while in ancient Athens, they drank wine scented with violets. Aldehydes triggered a revolution in perfumery. Sometimes.) 5, making it one of the first synthetics in fragrance. The perfume was launched in 2012 and the nose behind the fragrance is Thierry Wasser. The Bacchanalians tore him apart. "Heliotrope is an herbaceous plant that produces small flowers with white, purple, or blue shades. Mimosa has a long tradition in perfumery: it was first used in making incense, and symbolised resurrection and immortality: Egyptian mythology linked the acacia tree with the tree of life, described in the Myth of Osiris and Isis. "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. At Unilever, we think there is a certain magic to fragrances - bringing together perfumery artistry and scientific expertise. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb: Most popular women's perfume. Clarins Eau Dynamisante Its summer in a bottle: very fresh, watery, sheer, but (unsurprisingly) sweet at the same time. Many windowsills boast an aloe vera plant, so useful for treating burns (including sunburn) but outside this cosmetic use, this perennial succulent plant is also very occasionally - used as a note in perfumery: green, vegetal, fresh and aquatic. In India, meanwhile, narcissus one of the oils applied to the body before prayer, along with jasmine, sandalwood and rose. Ralph Lauren Safari The Greeks and Romans used it too, often with its near-relation cassia. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. (The other gifts were of course myrrh another fragrance ingredient and gold. Cranberries and blackberries have similar aroma chemicals, but mostly, perfumers turn to one of two synthetics to recreate raspberry-ness: frambonine or raspberry ketone (which can also be used as a raspberry flavouring). (Its even the name of a particular scent, from the Capri-based perfume house Carthusia). Its also referred to in the Bible (as Balm of Gilead). The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) lists 3,059 materials that are reported as being used in fragrance compounds. Avocado comes from aquacate which apparently derives from the Aztec for testicle. The plant itself is found in Africa, Asia, the Caribbean, areas of the US like Florida, and Australia. Clinique Calyx True natural Amber takes millions of years to form. Developers like Ray Matts always used large amounts of it in his fragrances as it gave a huge trail," says perfumer Olivier Gillotin. Dali Wild L'Oreal is one of the companies that dictate perfume industry stats by owning various famous fragrance brands. Goutal Rose Pompon Dior Hypnotic Poison (The best oil, though, is said to come from Tunisia, where Jean-Paul Guerlain has his own bitter orange grove) During the distillation process, a beautifully scented waters also produced, which makes its way into floral waters and flavourings. Jo Malone London English Pear & Freesia Many of us have enjoyed mango on holiday (though theyre rarely so perfectly succulent when theyve been transported half-way across the world). (Erotic postscript: in the tantric rite of the Five Essentials, saffron was applied to the females feet), The plant itself Crocus sativus, from the iris family - was introduced into Europe in the 7th Century, after the conquest of Spain; by the 16th Century, English saffron was prized as the best in the world, grown in large quantities around Saffron Waldon (which is how come that town got its name). Patricia de Nicola Vanilla Tonka Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents. It originated in India, Malaysia and Indonesia and made its way to the Middle East via the exotic silk route: patchouli is a fantastic insect repellent, effective against flies and other bugs. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Because Andy observes: 'My white lilac blooms early, due to an early spring in Zurich. Its extraordinary that a single plant can smell so different, depending on where its grown. Serge LutensArabie Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose Noses professional perfumers - love, love, LOVE ionones. Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir. Burberry Weekend for Women Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan, Mimosa. Tom Ford Black Orchid Each eclectic scent is packaged in a biodegradable pulp carton - a first in the beauty world - with an embossed lid made from recyclable paper packaging. ", "Even though this is one of the most broadly loved notes around the world, few people know that it actually comes from the seed pod of an orchid," says perfumer Stephen Nilsen. Chanel Cristalle Steam-extracted from the leaves of a family of super-fast-growing trees and shrubs native to Australia, New Zealand and Tasmania over 500 different varieties eucalyptus can add an airiness to perfumes, with its green, camphor-y, lemon-ish facets. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. Floris Fleur For many of us, geranium has an incredibly nostalgic scent: the scent of a grandmothers greenhouse, rubbing a furry-leaved plant between our fingertips. But how does it smell? The scented oils obtained by cold-pressing the peel and unlike so many other plant ingredients, the aroma that you get from that process is almost exactly the natural scent of the ripe fruits peel. Through a process of fractionation separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser its possible to get an ingredient thats much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved. The leaves of banana are sometimes used in perfumery, too: less sweet, more green and subtle. We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette (And when they do, the essence is prohibitively expensive. It can "lift" white flowers, but also - in partnership with woods or amber - can create roundness and depth. Best Day-to-Night Scent Yves Saint Laurent Black Opium Eau de Parfum $139 at Sephora 5 Best Sultry Scent Carolina Herrera Good Girl Eau de Perfume $106 at Amazon 1 Best for Layering The Harmonist. Gucci Envy Me Lush Orange Blossom It starts a conversation with the "still small voice of calm". Luxe perfumery Fragrance Du Bois works with CITES - an organisation tasked with protecting endangered animals and plants - to monitor its use of agarwood (commonly known as oud, it's often the. "It gives a strong effect in a perfume even in a very small amount," says Gillotin. 5 its airy overture: it tethers the creation). Of course, perfumers can mimic the scent using other woody and ambery ingredients more abundant in nature but nothing compares to the complexity of high- quality natural oud oil, which has olfactory references to dry woods, ambery resins, and even leather. Yardley Royal Diamond. Today, were more likely to wear fig behind our ears, and on our wrists, Ever smelled a scent that seems like its dripping in honey? ), and you might get whispers of a floral note, with fruity undertones somewhere mid-way between a rose and a nectarine. Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet A bushy shrub originally from Malaysia and India. Most marshmallow-makers today use gelatine (for convenience and because the roots quite hard to come by), mixing it with sugar and corn syrup to create the familiar, puffy, sponge-y sweets. Este Lauder Sensuous LArtisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant (Nobodys quite sure where the first flowers were grown; some believe it originated in Persia, and made its way to China via the Silk Route.). Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! Not only are roses the most romantic of flowers to look at: theyre an absolute cornerstone of perfumery the most important flower of all, from the point of view of a nose: sometimes powdery, sometimes woody, musky, myrrh-y, clove-like, sometimes fruity, or just blowsily feminine but always, intensely romantic. Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. Most of us are unaffected though, able to delight in the fresh, spirited joy of petitgrains citrus pleasures. They also feature in Houbigants Quelques Fleurs (created 1912) and Lanvins Arpge. ), This flowering vine was originally native to the south of India, where its long been used in Ayurvedic medicine. That translates as having an overripe character. Equally bewitching. In general, what you smell is a synthetic or fantasy ingredient rather than the scent of punnets-ful of squeezed red fruits. Nez Nez Hiroshima Mon Amour, Say cashmeran and somehow you know its going to be soft, smooth, almost snuggly. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood Givenchy Pi Cassie. Jean-Louis Scherrer Jean-Louis Scherrer You probably know this as oud (or oudh) which has become an incredibly popular perfume ingredient, in the past few years. Solid and as uncomfortable as can be. The aroma of natural oud is distinctively irresistible and attractive with bitter sweet and woody nuances: seriously earthy (and in small quantities, seriously sexy). baies rose is also edible, though, with a citrussy flavour.). Its generally used as a fixative or stabiliser in many perfumes helping to make sure that a favourite scent smells consistent, and keeping it true for many years in the bottle. Put it with frangipani or vanilla, though, and their mutual sweetness comes out (If you were to look under a microscope, vanilla essential oil actually contains a little heliotropin in its make-up.) Revlon Charlie Blue. It is a skill not many brands have managed to perfect, but Jo Malone has nailed it. For a while, it was actually an accepted currency in Europe ah, those were the days, By Kilian Straight to Heaven Additional information about the fragrance ingredients we use in our products can be found for most items in the U.S. and Canada on the brand website and via SmartLabel . Thierry Mugler Womanity LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu Its the long leaves which are prized, rather than the tiny (and fleeting) white flowers. Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. Orange blossom can be used almost symbolically in fragrance, as well as for its bewitching scent: over time, its come to represent purity, moral virtue and innocence, but fruitfulness and fertility, too. What is it? Bees love these intoxicating blooms: when you taste acacia honey, this is the tree whose pollen the bees have dipped into. Caron Tabac Blond 5 Eau Premiere As with all roses, its important to harvest Taif roses early in the morning, before the heat of the day destroys the precious essential oils. Ambrette seeds are probably one of my preferred ingredients because of their soft animalic character, and warm nutty milk undertones. With golden yellow pea-like flowers, the short, bushy shrub Genista tinctoria (which is a member of the broom family) flourishes in dry uplands, in the US. Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet Fern gives a cool, damp, sweet and woody feel to a fragrance like walking into the embrace of a shady spot. James Heeley Cardinal You wouldnt love the smell of hemlock if you got up-close-and-personal and youd be unwise to do that, as its a seriously poisonous plant: in Ancient Greece, hemlock was the poison used to execute prisoners (including the renowned philosopher Socrates). Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. Its a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran almost melts into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families. It has a waxy, soft floral quality, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with pollen. Diptyque LAutre Van Cleef & Arpels First Tom Ford White Patchouli. Katy Perry Meow we have some answers for you. Its use goes back for centuries: bergamot was famously known to be a component of the original Eau de Cologne, developed in Germany by J.M. Olfactive Studio Chambre Noire. Its mostly the foliage (from trees grown in the Atlas mountains of Morocco, or Virginia in the USA) that is steam-distilled to produce the intense oil, which is also used in aromatherapy for calming and balancing. The Italian term for neroli is zagara. Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for true musk. The fern most widely used in perfumery is the Common Male Fern, which grows widely in Britain and the rest of Europe. The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who youre speaking to Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. What you smell actually comes from a sticky brown resin, taken from a plant that grows (often in very inhospitable, dry locations) in the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East. "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. Although marigold is more widely used in mens perfumery, a handful of well-known feminine fragrances do feature flashes of this unusual note, for an intriguing twist, Atelier Cologne Ambre Nue Rum itself dates back to the 17th Century and Caribbean sugar plantations: its distilled from molasses, the dark and syrupy by-product of sugar cane, and when aged in oak barrels takes on deep golden tones, and rich flavours. (The shoots, leaves and seeds are also used in cooking, while ambrette flowers are sometimes used to add scent and flavour to tobacco). Founded by Kilian Hennessythe grandson of the famed cognac-making familyin 2007, the eco-luxe brand is renowned for crafting scents that spark conversation. Its said that if you added drops of natural musk oil to a handkerchief, youd still be able to smell it 40 years later. Theres something about the voluptuous but fragile beauty of peonies that makes them truly evocative and sensual, as a perfume ingredient. "Jasmin Sambac adds richness and naturality to all my creations and is quintessential for my floral bouquets.. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell But in fact, orange blossoms versatility lends itself to all kinds of fragrances so its very widely used, acting too as a natural fixative to prolong the life of will-o-the-wisp ingredients. (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). Van Cleef & ArpelsCologne Noir. (Sometimes, theyll turn to synthetic iris to create that cool, almost sterile effect), Andrea Maack Craft Givenchy Amarige Philospohy Baby Grace Cartier Eau de Cartier Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. (Aromatherapeutically, mimosa is said to have properties that help to relieve stress and depression, FYI.). From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. There are dried fruits giving it a gourmand character, supported by what brings "cocoa" to mind. Were generally not so familiar with the flowers which arent any help to perfumers at all but arent they gorgeous? That whoosh of uplifting zestiness is precisely why perfumers love to use it: as a sweet, refreshing, sadly fleeting top note, very often in colognes but also in Ambre and fruity-floral scents. Prada No. Guerlain Chamade Alternatively, let your eye travel over the scrolling, rolling collage below and click on whatever takes your fancy: a visual lucky dip. Crabtree & Evelyn Gardenia Calvin Klein Eternity ), DKNYBe Delicious The daisy gets its name from the old English: days eye because the flowers open up at dawn, and close at dusk. Happily for civet cats, most of the civet now used is synthetically recreated, for ethical reasons (the cats are kept in cages and stressed, in order to produce the secretion) although we have heard that some small perfumers still secretly source the real thing, a practise we absolutely cant condone. "Over the past twenty years, oud has become a phenomenon in Anglo perfumery. Iso-eugenol - common in naturals like lemongrass, ylang ylang and cassie. Goutal Songes You can smell scents featuring ink on their fragrance pyramid and be right back there in the classroom, getting a whiff from your inky fingers. Mariah Carey M Sharp, aromatic, refreshing, grapefruit from the peel of the fruit of the Citrus paradise tree - blends well with other citrus ingredients in the overture, or top notes, of summery and uplifting scents, blending well with basil, lavender, cedarwood and ylang-ylang. Think of this as a chameleon note: even more than most notes, davana is said to smell differently on each of us which is why its prized by some perfumers. Jo Malone London Peony & Blush Suede Nez Nez Atelier dArtiste Davidoff Cool Water Woman Bergamot blends well with other aromatics, which is why it is so popular in fragrance.". Perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations of synthetic and/or natural substances which are added to products to give them a distinctive scent. One of summers favourite berries, strawberrys turned up in a fruitbowl of scents in recent years, riding on a wave of fruity-floral popularity sometimes paired with exotic white flowers like ylang-ylang, lily or jasmine, or in gourmand creations alongside caramel and cinnamon. Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Beige We've also discontinued plastic samples, so you can feel good about smelling good. Max Mara Max Mara Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. Yves Saint Laurent Y. Petigrain. Now theres an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. But it also reveals a soft yet surprising bitterness, when you taste it. LArtisan Parfumeur Timbuktu Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame Floris Edwardian Bouquet Indeed, there are so many varieties and cross-overs (see below for a selection from Wikipedia's extensive page), that to date, no one author has successfully categorised them all. Has nailed it first Tom Ford white Patchouli synthetics in fragrance the medieval era of Arab perfumery industry by... 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